Natural Dyes: This chart is from the HGA COE in Dyeing. There are many other natural dyes, this is to give one a place to start in dye investigation. This chart, enlarged to include more dyes and/or information will be in the Complex Weavers' Medieval Textiles issue #39.

  1. Dye Table

Natural Dye

Botanical Name

Country of Origin

Material Type

Active Dye

Available Forms

Safety/Environmental concerns

Brazilwood

Haematoxylum brasiletta, Caesalpinia sappan, C. echinata

Brazil, S. America

Wood of tree

brazilin

Sawdust, extract

Considered non-toxic.

Cochineal

Dactylopius coccus

Central & S. America

Entire insect

carminic acid

Dried insects

Exposure Standards: None established.

Engineering Controls: Use adequate general or local exhaust ventilation to keep fume or dust levels as

low as possible.

From MSDS Worksafe Australia

Cutch

Accacia catechu

India, Nepal, S.E. Asia and the Philippines

Wood of tree

catechutannic acid & catechin

Crystals, extract, wood chips

Acacia Catechu is in danger of depletion. There has been no replanting since 1945. The current projections of availability are between 5-7 years, at which time most Acacia catechu trees will be gone (per US Agency for International Development) catchin is an irritant

Fustic

Rhus Cotinus

Europe

Wood of tree

fustin & fisetin

Wood chips

Considered non-toxic

Fustic

Morus tinctoria

West Indies

Tropical America

Wood of tree

morin

Wood chips

Considered non-toxic

Indigo (Japanese)

Polygonum Tinctorum

Japan, Orient

Leaves

Indigo

Plant, powder, block

MSDS from Ashland Chemical:

Eye contact can cause irritation. Not harmful to skin & breathing small amounts not considered problematic. Pure chemical is noted as being an irritant.

Indigo

Indigofera tinctoria

Africa, S. Asia middle East.

leaves

indigo

Plant, powder, block

Indigo (woad)

Isatis tinctoria

Russia, central & N. Europe

leaves

indigo

Plant, powder, block

Logwood

Haematoxylon campechianum

Jamaica,

West Indies

Wood of tree

Hematoxylin

Wood chips

Exposure Standards: No exposure standard allocated

Engineering Controls: Local exhaust ventilation recommended.

From MSDS Worksafe Australia. UK MSDS note is harmful if swallowed, and is an irritant. Goggles to be worn

Madder

Rubia tinctoria

Mediteranean region & S. Europe, Central and Western Anatolia

roots

dihydroscyanthraquinon, & purpurin

Dried root, ground root, extract

Exposure Standards:

Nuisance particulates 10mg/m3 total dust (ACGIH)

Engineering Controls: Local exhaust recommended.

From MSDS Worksafe Australia If using pure chemicals, use goggles, gloves, respirator

Osage

Maclura pomifera

Red River drainage of Oklahoma, Texas, and Arkansas

Wood

morin

Wood chips, extract

Fruit is poisonous if eaten. Sap can cause dermatitis.

Walnut, Persian

Juglans regia

Turkey

Nut hulls, roots

juglone

Nut hulls

Interior nut is edible, hull is considered non-toxic in whole form. The tree roots emit chemicals that keep other plants from growing under the tree. Juglone, the pure chemical, is highly toxic, if using it wear goggles, respirator, gloves, lab coat and proper ventilation.

Walnut, Black

Juglans nigra

Northeast and upper Midwest United States

Nut hulls, roots

juglone

Nut hulls

Weld

Reseda luteola

Europe

Leaves, plant

Luteolin & apigenin

Plant leaves

Considered Non-toxic. Luteolin is an anti-oxidant being used in cancer research as in apigenin, but apigenin is also an irritant requiring safety equipment

More Links:

Raise.org

Research in Conservation: Ozone damage

Journal of the American Institute for Conservation: Dye Analysis of Pre-Columbian Peruvian Textiles