A warping reel is used for weaving. More specifically, it is used to measure the yarn or 'ends'
in preparation for warping the loom.
1 circular bearing 12" diameter (lazy susan)
ELECTRONIC BEAM COUNTER
1 3/4"x4"x4" plywood (choice of wood)
2 @ 14" x 14" squares, 4 legs 5" high
1 1/2 x 3/4 Oak, Maple or Popular
To make 4 cross members 25" long
2 warping peg holders 20" long
1 1/2 x 36" dowel (warp pegs-6" long x 6)
2 cross members 26" long (center brake)
4 1"x36" dowel
Make 2 pieces square-14"x14"
Mount bearing between squares (sandwich)
Cut Flat legs (shape optional 5" x 12"
Cut cross members 26"--Use 1/2 laps to make cross
Bore 1" blind hole in each end of 2 crosses
Bore 1" thru hole in ends of third cross
Bore 1" thru holes in end of warping peg holders (2 holders)
Bore 3 1/2" holes in each warp peg holders for warping pegs
Cut 1"dowels to desired length-4 even
Be sure holds in cross members are equal and matching. Assemble with 1
warping peg board at top and 1 at bottom. Center cross member between top
bottom. Glue and screw all joints. Finish as desired.
Mount reel assembly on lazy susan platform.
Enjoy and have a great time.
Plans provided by Sally & her husband
An electronic beam counter is also used for weaving. This is used to keep track of the number
of revolutions of a sectional warp beam when winding on the warp.
You will need:
soldering gun, electric solder or conductive solder
calculator (more on selecting later)
Radio Shack magnetic reed contact switch cat. # 49-496 (costs three or
fine insulated wire (we used very fine wire so that the calculator case
would still close with the wires hanging out, but you could use heavier
The magnetic switch is wired into the equal sign on the calculator. One
magnet is placed on the beam, the other in a corresponding position on the
loom. Every time the beam rotates the magnets pass, and the calculator
counts the rotation.
SELECTING THE CALCULATOR: Test your calculator by entering "1" then "+"
then "=". The calculator should now read "1". Now enter "=". Do not
press a number. The calculator should read "2" and should increase by one
every time the equal sign is pressed. If your calculator won't do this you
can't use it. Make sure you can remove the back of the calculator. Some
backs cannot be removed. Most calculators will automatically turn
themselves off after about 8 minutes with no activity. This has not been a
problem for me. But if you worry about it select a calculator that has no
on/off switch and runs on solar cells. They are always on. We used a
Sharp 243 twin power calculator (about 3 or 4 dollars at Wal-Mart). We
would have used the Texas Instruments TI-7000 II (because it is always on)
but the back seems to be heat melted on and we couldn't open it.
Notice where the equal key is located on the face of the calculator. Then
lay the calculator face down and remove the back. CAUTION!!! Keep the
caluclator face down. The key parts are held in by the back and will all
fall out if it is turned over. After you take the back cover off you should
see a circuit board. Carefully lift it up (removing any screws) and lay it
to the side face up. It will still be attached at one end to the rest of
the calculator. Locate the position on the circuit board that corresponds
with the equal key. The caluclator works this way: when a button is
pressed it contacts the circuit board and "shorts" across two lines on the
circuit board. Look at the space on the circuit board for the two lines. (
The pattern of lines on the circuit board are called traces.) These two
lines (traces) will intermingle at each key location but will not be
touching. My DH says sometimes they resemble forks, combs, etc. On ours
the lines look like small intermeshed combs. Remove the insulation on the
end of two pieces of wire just enough to solder to each line. On our
circuit board there are small circles where each line leaves the key
position and my DH soldered the wire on the circle, one wire for each line.
Close up the caculator. Remove the insulation from the other ends of the
wires and attach each wire to the wires on the magnetic switch. Use
connectors or insulate with tape.
Now test the calculator. Enter "1" then "+", then pass the end of the
loose magnet by the end of the one you have attached to the calculator.
They are designed to work within .8 inches. Every time you pass the
magnets by each other it operates the equal sign. The first pass should
read 1, then 2 and so on.
Look at your loom and decide where to mount the calculator where the
magnets can pass closely. I have a 30 inch Norwood loom. I used sticky
back velcro to mount the calculator on the right side (looking at the warp
beam) on the inside of the back vertical side brace and taped the attached
magnet to the horizontal side brace. I taped the other magnet to the end
of the sectional beam (hereafter referred to as beam magnet). The ends of
the magnet pass less than 1/4 inch from each other. The magnets can be
inserted in 1/4 inch drilled holes but I haven't found it neccessary. Tape
down any loose wire to keep it out of the way. NOTE: decide where to put
the calculator first and make sure you attach the proper length of wire. I
will probably use an electrical plastic tie to attach the beam magnet more
permanantly, although it's been taped on for months and I haven't had any
problem even with all vibration from the beater. I do remove the
calculator and the other switch after warping on the beam. My
four-year-old son can't resist it so I remove the temptation. We looked
for very tiny plugs so that the calculator could be removed by simply
unplugging the switch wires but couldn't find anything tiny enough to
insert in the case. If anyone finds something like this please let us
When starting to warp on move the beam so the magnet is just past the
magnet attatched to the calculator. Enter "1" then "+". Now wind on the
warp for the first section. The first time the beam magnet passes the
other magnet the calculator will read "1". The second time it will read
"2", and so one. After finishing each section clear the calculator and
re-enter "1" then "+".